Hi Guys,
Here's a photo update. Daniel is correct. This is a large seacock under the head sink, but outboard of the sink on the starboard side. It seems to be the same size/configuration as the water intake for the engine. As shown in the picture, the barrel (from the engine seacock that I've pulled) is slightly tapered--you were right Daniel. It's also approximately 1-3/8" OD at the smallest end. The opening for the flexible hose is quite large. The OD on the hose is approximately 1-3/4"
Geoff, my hull number is 11. It appears that the earlier boats have a different configuration for the head.
I'll try Daniel's quick heating method to see if I can loosen the barrel on the stuck seacock. The others aren't scored, so I'm hoping that this one is ok. Hopefully, some grinding paste will get me back in business. Otherwise, I'll have to figure out a plan B.
Geoff
Thank you for referring to me.
Bonding has been a topic on the Forum, see thread dated 09 September 2011.
You mention compromised bonding, if you by this mean no bonding, such an item explicitly can not become an anode for the others because it is not connected to their electrical circuit.
As far as I know Nautor did not install bonding on Swans delivered to USA.
Kind regards
Lars
I was thinking more of the case where a bonding strap (thin wide copper sheet) was corroded and lost 75% of its original contact to an item, or where a wire might have a corroded connector, etc. so that the electrical connection was there but no longer ideal - in such a case, perhaps a voltage difference might then exist to the one item so (poorly) connected and the rest of the connected items?
Don,
indeed the picture displays a precious and classic Blake! I would insist with the push-from-outside method and, of course, some heating of the seacock body may help. An additional preparation would be closing the outer port with a cork and pouring into the inner hose port penetrating oil or vinegar up to the rim and let it work for a while; this is what I would do.
As far as I know all 411´s are alike, at least regarding the plumbing system.
Daniel, 411/004
Dear Geoff
Thank you for the additional definition.
Electrical current consists of flowing electrons, and a conductor loosing part of its conductivity will restrict the flow, thereby reducing the galvanic action.
I think bonding which involves low voltage DC current may very well use cable.
High frequency radio installations is another matter, they need grounding straps of thin copper sheet, as HF current flows at the surface rather than through the conductor.
Kind regards
Lars
Well...I've expended my (and everyone else's ideas). It looks like I'll have to replace the entire unit. It should be arriving this week.
By the way, I thought Daniel's idea of using apple vinegar as a weak acid was brilliant. I plugged the hole and filled the seacock with vinegar for approximately 20 hours--nothing. I then tried my own blend of penetrating oil (30% acetone, 70% vegetable oil) for 20 hours, and finally Kroil (a top end commercially prepared penetrating oil) for 20 hours. When I tap (or rather 'whack hard' with a hammer) from the outside, there is absolutely no movement. For what ever reason, the until corroded enough internally to weld together. So, it's time to admit defeat and move on to replacement.
I'll send photos as I progress through the next phase of the project.
