Teak Toe Rail on 43
I am experiencing problems with the teak toe rail on my 43' REBECCA and am unsure which way to go. The teak on the outboard edge is soft in some areas and has come loose in a couple of other locations. The question is should I replace the rail or try to repair it. If I replace it should I use teak or go to an aluminum toe rail. The teak deck was removed some time ago by the previous owner so I've already lost some of the traditional Swan look. Removing the old toe rail looks to be a big job but I think a necessary one in the near future. If any of you have done this I'd like to hear your comments. I will be doing the work myself and not turning it over to a yard.

Thanks,

John McKay

Dear John
Here some information which may be helpful.

The teak rail is bolted through the hull/deck joint at a fairly big spacing, you see the dowels for these bolts on top of the rail.
Between these bolts there are short bolts under the rail, going only through the hull/deck joint at a much smaller spacing.
You need to open only the teak rail bolts, but inside you see the ends of them all, and it is important to find out which are which. They may be glassed over.

The new rail needs to have a lip at the outboard edge with the same thickness as the deck laminate edge it will hide.
Take care to fill the void under the rail between the deck edge and the rail lip completely with mastic, otherwise a hidden "water distribution" channel is created.
There needs to be drain holes through the rail at the lowest point, their position can be found with the boat rigged in the water. Or you may decide to install through-deck drains which exit in the boot top, or underwater.
Kind regards
Lars

I am experiencing problems with the teak toe rail on my 43' REBECCA and am unsure which way to go. The teak on the outboard edge is soft in some areas and has come loose in a couple of other locations. The question is should I replace the rail or try to repair it. If I replace it should I use teak or go to an aluminum toe rail. The teak deck was removed some time ago by the previous owner so I've already lost some of the traditional Swan look. Removing the old toe rail looks to be a big job but I think a necessary one in the near future. If any of you have done this I'd like to hear your comments. I will be doing the work myself and not turning it over to a yard. Thanks, John McKay

Professor Lars,

Thank you for your quick response and information.

Yes, all the through bolts are glassed over down below. The problem appears to be in the lower or bottom piece of wood not in the top rail....I'm assuming there are two pieces of teak as it appears there is some seperation in some areas along a seam. Is this correct? Or it may be that it is the outside rail lip where most of the problems are as it has pulled away from the fiberglass.

Thank you,

John

John
If the lip is a separate piece the seam should continue along the whole length.
Are there black areas on the lip? This means water is standing behind it.
If the problem is only in the lip it is suggested you remove it, clean the slot so the deck edge becomes visible, and glue in a new lip. Then the top part of the rail and the bolts need not be touched.
Kind regards
Lars

Dear John and Professor,

Thank you for this post - very informative.

We removed the toe-rail at the stern which appears to be laminated.  I need to clean it thoroughly to make an estimation of the best method of repair.  Generally speaking, I plan to repair the toe-rail rather than replace it.

I am in the process of removing the deck and will removed the remainder of the toe-rail in the near future. 

Like John, I will no longer have the teak deck (planning on painted non-skid for a few years)  which runs under the toe-rail into a rabbet (rebate for friends on the other side of the pond).  I have not yet decided how to fill this area.  I am leaning toward a teak insert since I have all but decided to add a new teak deck at some point in the future - maybe distant!

On my Tartan 41, I had an aluminum toe rail which was useful but not as elegant.  The more I get to know my boat the more I want to revert her to her original beauty.

Good Luck.

Chris 

Dear Lars & Chris,

Thank you both for responding. Professor, I don't see any black spots so I may be lucky. It appears the lower, thinner teak that butts to the fiberglass has dried out and cracked and splintered in places. The rails haven't been varnished and the damaged areas are on the port side which gets most of the direct sunlight as she sits in her present slip. I'll start by removing all the damaged areas and see where I end up.

Chris, best of luck with your deck and toe rail. I'm currently working down below redoing all the woodwork. I'm into the galley area now with the nav station and quarterberths yet to get to. I just discovered the toe rail damage so will have to deal with that.

Thanks to you both,

John

Dear John,

I would love to see pictures of the work you are doing on the interior.  Mine is completely apart and much will need to be replaced.

Chris

Chris,

I'll be away for a couple of weeks but will get some off to you when I return.

When you get your toe rail off I'd like to see photos of what the hull/ deck joint looks like without the rail.

All the best,

John

Chris,

I'll be away for a couple of weeks but will get some off to you when I return.

When you get your toe rail off I'd like to see photos of what the hull/ deck joint looks like without the rail.

All the best,

John

Hi John,

It will be a while before I examine the toe-rail and determine what needs to come off, however, I can provide pictures of the stern toe rail, which has already been removed, and the hull-to-deck joint.  I would guess that this construction method would be consistent for the rest of the toe-rail. 

Like you, I am traveling, but only briefly and should be able to provide pictures this weekend.

With warm regards,

Chris

Chris,

I look forward to seeing the pictures.

Thanks,

John

Hi John,

Attached to this entry are 3 pictures - one to follow.  Please let me know if you need more and describe what you would like to see and I will do my best to provide it.

Chris

Stern - deck and flange

Stern - forward view

stern - forward view 2

Propane locker and view of entire stern toe rail area

Stern Deck - cavity for propane locker

Hi John and Professor,

A little more information about the toe rail.  At the boat on Tuesday, my son and I removed approximately 12 feet of teak decking (two layers) along the toe rail.  It appears that the while the original teak decking ran under the stern toe rail, it does not run under the rest of the toe rail.  This is very good news for me since I was wondering how I would fill in the area of the rabbet that I thought would be left open by the missing teak.

I am not certain if I need to remove my toe rail yet since I am still working on removing the teak decking in order to plug up all the holes and stop the flood of water that continues to seep into my boat.

Our latest effort should have reduced the water intrusion to a trickle. 

Fair winds,

Chris

Chris,

Sorry I have been so long in getting back to you. Here are some photos of my 43' REDECCA. I am currently redoing the cabin sole and working my way aft to convert the starboard quarter berth to a double. On the exterior I am going to have a new bow roller fabricated as the old one has a small crack in it. I'm trying to figure out how I might incorporate the ability to fly a code zero as well.

I have all but decided to remove the teak toe rail and replace it with a Goiot aluminium rail. I'm feeling very quilty about doing this!! Our plans are for cruising and as the teak deck is already removed it helps in making the decision.

Are you replacing your teak toe rail? I know you have the stern portion already removed.

I imagine winter has slowed things for you. Here in San Diego I can't use winter as an excuse for not being further along than I am.

Hope all is well with you.

John

A couple more photos. The white box on the stern is for two small propane containers.

These didn't go the first time.

John

Hi John,

Sorry for the long delay. Beautiful and clean work on your interior. I love it. Inspirational!

With warm regards,

Chris