I had to remove my rudder and build a new one (could not have even begun this process without the Professor - you all know that!). Like you, I struggled with the bronze rudder shoe removal. The shoe is through-bolted. From Memory, one side of the shoe is threaded and I used an impact driver with a small sledge to loosen then large machine screws. In the end, I think I had to drill out the screws - I'll need to check my notes. Further, once you have the screws out, you may find that the shoe was bedded in 5200 - let's hope not! If so, you'll need to use a release agent.
I tried everything, including heat, but be careful to avoid damage to the glass. Brute force and patience won the day. The story does not end there; extracting the rudder stock is another job! if you need, I can refer to my notes and see about pictures as well.
On my Swan 43 I seem to recall partially supporting the gravity load of the rudder with a jack while heating bronze shoe and tapping with a hammer being careful not to damage the shoe.
Sometimes the full weight of the rudder exerts an eccentric loading on the bronze shoe jamming it against the fiberglass skeg and the rudder will not drop down.
Installation technique would be the reverse of removal. Remember to use NEW extra long bolts with a temporary double nut arrangement to gain maximum torque on the bolts and then grind off excess length. Using just a screw driver will not allow you to tighten the screws adequately (per the Professor's recommendations).
Thank you to all Finally we managed to get the rudder by removing the fittings (see photo) It may be helpful to disassemble the rudder stock If the shoe is not removable and if the rudder stock can not come out on top, it's a problem ! Your notes can be very useful.
