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| S&S Swan Maintenance - 1979 Swan 57 rudder |
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Join Date: 10 August 2018
Posts: 5 |
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1979 Swan 57 rudder Hello I am in the middle of a refit on my Swan 57 and wish to drop the rudder. I understand that the shoe is attached to the heel of the skeg with a steel plate, which I would need to remove. Where I am concerned or unsure is does the whole heel of the skeg drop and stay with the rudder or do I just strip all the glass below the shoe and slide it off with the dropping of the rudder? I can see evidence of previous repair work, but am trying to not create more destruction than needed. A few photos below of where I am at Thanks for any help in advance
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Dear Swanning Around
Originally there was a removable fairing piece at the bottom end of the skeg below the steel fitting, removal of this piece enabled the fitting to slide down together with the rudder.
If you want to remove the bottom bearing from the rudder stock there are two alternatives
- either remove the blade from the stock
- or make a cut-out in the blade below the bearing.
Pls note that there are removable fairing pieces along the trailing edge of the skeg, and along the leading edge of the rudder.
Kind regards
Lars
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Join Date: 10 August 2018
Posts: 5 |
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Thanks Lars All was a success. Safetly managed to drop the rudder by sliding the stock and blade down the core of the skeg.
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Join Date: 27 October 2013
Posts: 60 |
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The design on the 57 seems to be different (and weaker) compared to earlier Swans. The picture below is from Swan 44.
That design and size seems much stronger. Anyone have comments on this?
Best regards, Bjorn, Four Winds 44-014 |
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Dear Bjorn The Swan 44 bronze shoe is rather strong, but the section of interest is at the upper edge of the shoe, where the GRP is stepped all around to a smaller section in order to fit within the shoe. The bearing is located some distance down from the upper edge, creating an additional bending moment in the GRP section.
The Swan 57 GRP skeg is only partly stepped, and the bearing is right at the upper edge, this results in a stronger GRP section seeing smaller loads.
Kind regards
Lars
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Join Date: 27 October 2013
Posts: 60 |
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Lars, Thank you very much for the clarification. |
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Join Date: 10 August 2018
Posts: 5 |
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To Lars Hello Again with regards to the rudder.
As metioned before the rudder is now off and the shoes stayed with the rudder during the drop. I have hummed and haahed over whether or not to tear into the rudder to inspect the stock and bearings, and after much deliberation I have decided to carry on with said project.
So I would like to fully expose or remove the rudder stock for inspection. So what is the best action to take? What is holding the stock in place? I understand that the stock has a key on the lower bearing? What about the middle bearing? With regards to your suggestion previous: removeable fairing pieces...do I cut of the leading edge of the rudder to expose the stock?
In previous photos you can see evidence that someone at some point had cut into the rudder, but I am not convinced that the sections that were cut into is the best way to go about it. Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance |
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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Dear Swanning Around For inspection of the rudder stock, find the screws holding the fairing piece (item 26 on the drawing) to the rudder blade leading edge each side, and unscrew them. This will release the fairing piece.
The stock is attached to the blade with straps each side. The straps have screws through the blade (item 20 on the drawing).
Kind regards
Lars
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Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
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PS
It can be noted that the skeg bearing flanges are turned downwards on the photos, and upwards on the drawing. For turning the flanges upwards there needs to be a recessed area on the skeg for this, and I would like to ask if there is such a recess?
The recess was made during the hull plug stage, i.e. rather early.
This has little influence on the strength.
Lars
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