Blake’s Seacock replacement

Hi guys

I have taken out the old Blake Seacock and want to replace it with a new blake Seacock. I have red the technical paper on how to replace a blake Seacock. There are Just couple of points I have got a question  

One is that after reading the technical paper, it is a bit disconcerting, to have just the laminate holding the Seacock. In other types there is a thru-hull, backing plate etc that screws to the Seacock so they are tied together and feels much secure.

The second point is that the Blake Seacock I bought comes with a plate and long screws. I am not sure what they are for, I am just guessing the plate and the screws are placed on the outside and screws to the Seacock. 
I have uploaded some pictures. Thanks. 

Kaz Swan411

Dear Kaz,

Yes, that's exactly how they have been installed on 824 S&S Swan by Nautor, between the 60's and 80's, and there are no reported issues.

The plate is a backing plate if you want to screw  it instead of glassing it; it has been designed because the Blakes Seacock are not usually glassed from inside but just screwed.

Lest us know!

Fair winds,

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)

Hi Matteo

I would like to glass it but also like to screw the backing plate. I am a bit of worrier. Do I screw it from outside of the hull to the Seacock and what sealant do I use to stick it to the hull? Thanks

Kaz 

Dear Kaz,

yes, if you want to screw them outside to inside. I would seal them with (e.g.) 3M 5200, or a similar sealant by Sika, Kent, etc.

Fair winds!

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)

Thanks Matteo for your advise. Fair winds to you too.

Kaz Swan 411

Hi Kaz,

I like to tell you my experience in my 411 when I had to change the through-hull of the inlet of the engine cooling water.  As you probably already know, that size of Blakes is not available any longer and I had to pass to the next size - no problem about this beside the need to enlarge the hole.  Then I found that the new seacock came with a backplate and all those screws and thought exactly as you did: why not using them for higher strength?  I did it myself and, after trying to do my best, I was not happy at all.  Trying to bore the holes square is not easy at all for the position and for the thickness of the VTR and the screws ended to be slightly misplaced and slanted.

I am sure that the result is strong but aestetically... I prefer not to look at it.  What I am certain of is that next time I need to change a seacock either I will have someone else more able do the job or I will go for a fixing like the original which does not seem to have any problem: well laminated and without screws.

Daniel, 411/004 Luna Menguante.

Dear Kaz,

worth reading this article just published on PBO. They (wisely) suggest, in case you want to screw the BB, to switch to bronze ones and get rid of the stainless steel ones.

Fair winds!

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks Matteo and Daniel. I have now installed the seacock without the backing plate. So we will see if it holds. 

Hi everyone,

both sizes are available here:

https://www.toplicht.de/de/pumpen-sanitaer/borddurchfuehrung-ventil-fitting/kugelhaehne-ventile/kugelhaehne-ventile-aus-bronze-rotguss/5317/seeventile-blakes

best regards,

Gesa

toge 38/113

or directly from the manifacturer (https://blakesandtaylors.co.uk) and with a dedicated discount to S&S Swan Association Members.

Fair winds,

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)