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S&S Swan Maintenance - Swan 47 - teak deck removed Deck strengthen ?
18 December 2023 - 02:15
#1
Join Date: 21 February 2019
Posts: 5

Swan 47 - teak deck removed Deck strengthen ?

Ahoy,

 

we are removing the teak deck on the coach roof around the mast. After removing the teak, the deck has a bit of a spring, when trodden on ( stepped on) 

we are not replacing the teak deck, but applying Kiwi grip.

Question: should  we reinforce the deck with a layer of GRP and epoxy, before painting ?

thanks in advance 

chris 

Saga 47-015

 

18 December 2023 - 08:45
#2
Join Date: 29 January 2007
Posts: 1033

Dear Chris,

I will send you the lamination plan, in case you do not have it.

I don't think it will be necessary, anyway look at the plan and eventually discuss with an engeneer if you need.

Fair winds!

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)

01 February 2024 - 17:18
#3
Join Date: 29 July 2012
Posts: 4

Teak is no more than decoration on fibre decks. Swans will be no exception. However I think you should check for moisture in your deck. I understand that can cause delamination and weakening of the deck! Teak used to be fastened with screws and these will let moisture into the fibre sandwich sooner or later. My S&S 48 was stripped of its teak and painted some time before I became owner in 2008. I now had some small paint blisters suggesting screw heads under the paint. I found no screw but screw holes under these blisters. And moisture in the deck fibre on measuring, no delamination yet though. I decided for a major refit before weakening by delamination might occur. Stripping all the deck paint off showed, that the screw holes from the teak had not been dealt with properly. I believe they should have been drilled out and sealed with epoxy. A layer of fibre with epoxy on the sanded deck certainly would be advantageous, just like osmosis is dealt with on underwater hull.  However, moisture, if present, must be dealt with before. Swan decks where already sandwiches with a foam core that will act like a sponge for any humidity seeping in, e.g. by capillary leaks along old teak deck screws. 

Good luck with Your job! Alberto

blisters suggesting screw heads

sanding of deck and opening sandwich windows for drying

close up of sandwich construction

01 February 2024 - 22:06
#4
Join Date: 01 April 2007
Posts: 106

Dear all,

As far as I know, the sandwich in the deck is closed cell divinicel. Consisting of, the name says it all,  closed cells. Therefore it cannot soak up the water.

jan

swan47-11

13 June 2024 - 04:53
#5
Join Date: 27 February 2007
Posts: 35

Chris,

 

Would like to hear how your deck removal and refinishing is coming along. I am undergoing same endeavor on Inspiration (Swan 38). I have not yet decided if I will put any glass down and believe that it may not be necessary and that a few coats of epoxy primer ought to do enough to seal the deck and prepare for painting. I have not yet decided what the finish will be. In your decision for Kiwigrip does that mean you finished the decks with new gelcoat not paint?

 

2 areas I would really like to hear about and get your advise (or others). 

1) what did you do with the teak would under the mast 'collar' did you lift up the collar and remove and then rebel the collar or something else?

 

2) What did you end up doing with the teak hatch surrounds/boxes. They appear to have been installed on top of teak and caulking ... sand/paint? Fiberglass over? Take off and build something new? The interior trim parts are so well crafted that I am reluctant to tackle an questioning the best approach here.

 

Any wisdom you could share (or from others who have done similar) would be warmly welcomed.

Thanks!

Nathan

Insiration (Swan 38 / 090)

13 June 2024 - 07:45
#6
Join Date: 29 January 2007
Posts: 1033

Dear Nathan,

when removing the teack deck, if that's the original one, you will find thousands of screw holes, as in the 60s/70s/80s they worked with this technique, of course those holes need to be sealed; when I had Vanessa's teak re-done all screw holes have been closed one by one (what a job!) with a bamboo heel epoxy impregnated (see pic below), afterwards three coats of epoxy, and finally the new planks.

Mast collar: if it does not show a corrosion problem (unlikely) or leaking (possible) should nbot be removed. Remember this is anodized alluminum, so you can not paint it (unless you want be become a slave of painting it quite every year).

Teak (again, if that's the original one) is not laid under hatches, it ends just in concomitance of the vertical plank of the hatches, so unless you want to undertake a big task I suggest not to dismantle the framing (superlatively crafted).

Fair winds!

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)

Bamboo heels, epoxy impregnated, to seal old screw holes

Beginning of planking laid down

13 June 2024 - 19:55
#7
Join Date: 20 July 2017
Posts: 119

Dear Nathan,

We replaced our teak deck in 2021 and - to be 100% sure we didn't miss any old screw holes etc. - added 2 or 3 layers of thin fibre glas and epoxy. We felt that was the safer option, especially as we were lucky enough to be able to replace the teak, although we didn't have as many old screw holes as Matteo. It also provided a very uniform base.

So far had no problems with any leaks; there are some photos and a video of the Kairos refit on the forum, which you might find helpful.

Fair winds,

Stefan

SY Kairos (57/043)

 

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