Varnishing our Swans (Wood)
Dear Friends,

many people asked me how I do the maintenance of Only You's interiors (original product, Sadolin and Sadolux are not available outside Finland), so, here you are (thanks to Jayne -47/047 Aorangi- who translated my "receipe" from Italian into English):

1) I use EPIFANES varnishes, as i find them the ones that give the desired effects for my taste, even though they are very difficult to apply, the rubbed effect inside, and gloss for the parts that are bright work (and that are in contact with direct sunlight and salt), ex. companionway stairs, frames and hatches, etc.

2) If the area to be varnished is in good shape, sand (wet or dry depending on the area) with 320 or 400 (600 for the final coat), and use the sand paper holder or a teak block so that the surface is absolutely smooth and homogenous.

3) I clean the work area in a maniacal manor, first with a vacuum cleaner, then passing a white cotton cloth soaked with alcohol.  This last pass must be done over and over again until there is no trace of dust, dirt, or oil.  Using a white cloth ensures that there is no more to be taken off.

4) NEVER touch the area to be varnished with your fingers, use latex gloves instead.  Human skin even when washed contains natural oils that will inhibit the correct application of the varnish.

5) At this point I'm ready to varnish, just after one last passing with an “tack cloth”.

6) I dilute the varnish with Epifanes Brush Thinner (or white spirit), more in the first coats, and less in the later

7) The varnish should be warm.  If the sun it out let it warm up a few hours outside, if not set it in a saucepan in another larger pan of hot water

8) Use only brushes that are extremely soft and natural, and of the best quality.   I find that those with ox hair is the best.  They are costly (one brush of 4cm usually costs 20Eu or so -USD 28-), and you can only find them in fine arts stores, but if taken care of they will last a lot of years (mine are more than 10 years old)

9) My technique:  I dip the brush in the varnish, and very quickly "deposit" the varnish in a line following the grain of the wood.  Then, starting for the top, I apply it very very well, making more strokes but always in the same direction (never in the opposite direction), and without pressing on the brush.  In other words, I allow the brush to be pulled with only the pressure of it as against the varnish.

10)  Never varnish on humid days, and also for the same reason it is better to varnish in the morning and not evening

1.1)  If the area is damaged, for example if water damage or other, best to sand with 180 and arriving at 320.

2.1)  Be careful of marine plywood, as it will obligate choices.  If the "black" is in depth it's better non to exaggerate otherwise the first layer could be finished and that is a disaster. 

3.1)  when the wood has been prepped it is cleaned in the same manner as above.

4.1)  Now I'm ready to varnish.  I begin with a coat the is diluted by 50%.  Then WITHOUT SANDING BETWEEN ONE COAT AND ANOTHER.  This creates a notable thickness, diminishing the dilution between one coat and another, until there are 8/10 coats applied.   This technique (from sanding to coats applied and preparation) have been handed down by master shipwrights, and has in my experience given great satisfaction.  (In effect, if you sand between coats of varnish it diminishes the amount deposited)

5.1)  When the "base" is ready, before doing the final two coats, I sand as in point 2

6.1)  At this point the base is perfect and ready to have the final two coats applied, following the procedure noted in point 9

Have fun (I love varnishing)!

matteo (38/067 Only You)



pic below: I am varnishing my floorboards on my (home) dining table...(my wife loves me so much...)

Great post Matteo!!!
I wonder if, after your extremely helpful indications, I will finally learn and succeed in doing an acceptable varnishing job after the disasters I have been resigned to suffer for long time.
:-)
Daniel, 411-004

Dear Daniel and All, apologize for the less than perfect translation, but was under the influenze of solvent and Epifanes fumes and so there are some pretty elementary errors...next time will proof read before sending! Promise. And Daniel, will let you know if these wonderful instructions are enough for those of us who are somewhat negated in the art of varnishing:-) Coat #4 tomorrow... All the best!
Jayne
Aorangi 47/047

Dear Friends,

one more tip.

As Epifanes varnishes are very good but extremely expensive, and as even if you close the can very carefully after use, they evaporate, and quality decreases, I keep my cans on a vaacum pack, this way they last for a long time!

Fair winds!

Matteo (38/067 Only You)

Hello everyone!

This is definitely an interesting topic. I also came to the conclusion that epiphan satin finish is the best, but I have a question. As far as I remember one is supposed to put only two coats of satin finish maximum (per epiphane instruction booklet). Matteo, reading your very interesting recipe I see that you apply as much as eight coats. Does that mean 6 glossy plus two satin??

Kind regards.

Philippe 41/022

Dear Philippe

there is no a single answer, as it depends on the condition of the wood you are going to varnish. If you are starting from bare wood it is likely you have to get at least 8 coats of glossy plus a couple of rubbed, if the wood is in quite good condition and you don't need to start from zero, maybe you can just varnish with the rubbed effect.

Remember that the glossy has the UV barrier (which the Epifanes Rubbed Effect does not) and is thicker, this is why you should prepare the base with it and do the final job with the Rubbed effect.

Anyway I will show Only You's varnishes in Marciana Marina, so you will see with your own eyes what I mean!

Fair winds!

Matteo (38/067 Only You)

For anyone who has trouble getting the Epifanes in the States, first of all, Jamestown Distributors sells it. I also wanted to offer that Interlux Schooner high gloss as well as the Interlux Gold Spar Satin, both work beautifully. Tom Dillon in San Diego did the interior of my boat with these varnishes and it is gorgeous....it is a different product, in that sanding is needed between coats, but the cleaning as Matteo highlighted is critical. The Interlux website where they post these varnishes has a very complete set of step by step instructions for how to lay the varnish on. These varnishes are also higher cost, but in life often you get what you pay for. The pictures show a little of the finish, but in person, it really is super nice, better than the photos. My floorboards are a high build, gloss finish.
All the best, and fair winds -
Geoff McLaughlin
Corazon
411 #41

Dear Geoff

Thanks a lot, your interior looks really gorgeous, and I can tell looking at your happy smile it really is!

will try your varnish too!

Fair winds!

Matteo (38/067 Only You)

Dear All, in such a serious world these days here's a few lines to perhaps give a chuckle or two regarding varnishing our precious boats:

VARNISHING WITH EPIPHANES 101: beginner...
1) whatever they tell you, it is going to be at least 10 times more difficult if you are doing it on board...and near a boatyard and NATO base makes it even more interesting.
2) prepare to have your boat looking/and smelling like an open work yard for at least 14 days (if not more) seeing you can't varnish when it's humid, or when there is wind. and you can't keep things closed up or you'll pass out from the fumes on the first 3 coats at least...(and yes I had a very professional looking mask on at all times)
3) epiphanes gloss is the equivalent to the liquid caramel we used in the States to cover Halloween apples! Therefore, preparing yourself to understand it beforehand is impossible. this is not varnish, it is honey without the sweet...but still supposedly spreadable.
4) epiphanes varnish does not drip, is sags...your wonderfully prepared vertical surface becomes a series of strange waves. and horror should you try to repass your steps to smooth things out if more than 30 seconds has passed! (as all "auto leveling" varnishes, epiphanes works much much better on horizontal surfaces, but even there too we have much to learn!)
5) sanding between coats is obligatory (for those of us who are not professional painters or artists), because the first six coats are full of lessons with new challenges on every coat. and each sanding takes away the errors and allows for new ones to be tackled...
6) and when you finally think you've understood how to do things, it's time for a coat of "rubbed effect" which is a whole different song...
7) here there are surprises to say the least...all those waves and bubbles that insist no matter what you do, and put you into a desperate resignation after the first coat? only to find a beautifully smooth surface the "morning after" and a new outlook on epiphanes...
8) but obviously too good to be true...you wait 32 hours to do the "back side", and with great care place your precious success stories on pieces of clean teak to allow air to circulate. HA! next morning you control the backsides and they are perfect. but alas....as you pick up your pride and joy and roll it over in your hands there is a piece of teak still attached that painfully falls away to reveal tiny annoying scratches on your perfect surface. scary I know, but strangely enough no depression sets in. instead, it's another round of sanding, and one more coat of epiphanes! (which obviously does not come close to the work of art from the coat before, but that's ok). it's only right that there be imperfections in our world...makes things more interesting! but we are seriously interested to know how Matteo "creates" his varnishing ambient for the moment we can start back at our epiphanes adventure.
9) epiphanes is like being struck by a spell in the end. you never want to touch it again, yet you can't wait to have your boat look like "that" throughout...hmmm a nice dilemma....;-)

technical considerations:
-the surface condition is everything in the end, as the hardwood teak surfaces are perfect, whereas the plywood surfaces that were already compromised tend to give less credit to this amazingly difficult varnish. but even though Aorangi has teak surfaces that are not quite perfect, she looks so much better after the "trial treatment"! hopefully we can invite you all on board in June at the Rendezvous to talk about this, and get your pointers for the next round;-)
-in absence of a vacuum machine for the gloss varnish we used cellophane wrap that we laid over the surface every time and it IS necessary. it is certainly not the same, as you lose some varnish every time.
-the difference between brushes is enormous as Matteo suggested. had only a small ox hair brush for smaller surfaces, and the difference is evident.
-in absence of a "controlled" environment, wet white towels were hung on all of the chains of the portholes. seemed somewhat of a buddhist environment that protected me from negative thoughts.
-strongly suggest not taking on too much at a time, because it can become overwhelming relatively quickly...;-)
so to all who delve into the varnishing adventure...good luck, and may the results give you as much satisfaction as a good day on the water!

Jayne Aorangi 47/047

Hello Jane.

I will be very happy to meet you at the rendez-vous, may I say that I love your sense of humor!

An important point should be mentioned: do not use pure Epiphane varnish. It should absolutely be diluted with white spirit. On a 60/40 basis to start with, then progressively going down to 90/10 for the last coats. If you do that varnishing is an entirely different exercise!

Must agree with you about dust, and smell, though!

Kind regards.

Philippe

Hi Philippe,
Glad you enjoyed the hilarity of my venture. I only wish the excuse was not diluting, but unfortunately I followed the rules to the letter and started with 50/50 and then down by 10 each coat until 90/10. Guess there's beginners luck, and just beginners...of which I fall into the later of course.
Look forward to meeting you at the Rendezvous to learn more about this newfound challenge.
Thanks for now.

Jayne Aorangi 47/047

More to Epifanes here: http://www.epifanes.com/qanda.htm

Our dinning room has been graced by TIDERACE II’s floorboards and saloon table over the past few winters.  Even I must admit that the novelty of the house smelling of Epifanes wore off after a while; but the results are good, even if I found I needed the patience of a saint to achieve a finish I was happy with! (Following a very similar approach to those above)

My query that I hope you can help me with is this. Parts of the interior have various black marks that appear to be ingrained in the wood where the varnish has started to deteriorate.  I have tried rubbing with white spirits and this does remove some of it, but certainly not all.  What are these black marks?  And more importantly can they be removed?  A fair amount of the interior woodwork now needs varnishing, with careful sanding will this remove the black marks or is the wood permanently marked?

We have owned TIDERACE II for almost 6 years now and in that time have concentrated our efforts and the bank managers money in getting her to a “sailable” state as we would like, specifically ignoring the cosmetics; perhaps too much?

Your thoughts much appreciated.

Adrian

TIDERACE II

HI,
I am including a photo to show how well your advice worked!
Thanks again!

Robert Ahbel - Concerto 57/022

Dear Friends,

many people asked me how I do the maintenance of Only You's interiors (original product, Sadolin and Sadolux are not available outside Finland), so, here you are (thanks to Jayne -47/047 Aorangi- who translated my "receipe" from Italian into English):

1) I use EPIFANES varnishes, as i find them the ones that give the desired effects for my taste, even though they are very difficult to apply, the rubbed effect inside, and gloss for the parts that are bright work (and that are in contact with direct sunlight and salt), ex. companionway stairs, frames and hatches, etc.

2) If the area to be varnished is in good shape, sand (wet or dry depending on the area) with 320 or 400 (600 for the final coat), and use the sand paper holder or a teak block so that the surface is absolutely smooth and homogenous.

3) I clean the work area in a maniacal manor, first with a vacuum cleaner, then passing a white cotton cloth soaked with alcohol.  This last pass must be done over and over again until there is no trace of dust, dirt, or oil.  Using a white cloth ensures that there is no more to be taken off.

4) NEVER touch the area to be varnished with your fingers, use latex gloves instead.  Human skin even when washed contains natural oils that will inhibit the correct application of the varnish.

5) At this point I'm ready to varnish, just after one last passing with an “tack cloth”.

6) I dilute the varnish with Epifanes Brush Thinner (or white spirit), more in the first coats, and less in the later

7) The varnish should be warm.  If the sun it out let it warm up a few hours outside, if not set it in a saucepan in another larger pan of hot water

8) Use only brushes that are extremely soft and natural, and of the best quality.   I find that those with ox hair is the best.  They are costly (one brush of 4cm usually costs 20Eu or so -USD 28-), and you can only find them in fine arts stores, but if taken care of they will last a lot of years (mine are more than 10 years old)

9) My technique:  I dip the brush in the varnish, and very quickly "deposit" the varnish in a line following the grain of the wood.  Then, starting for the top, I apply it very very well, making more strokes but always in the same direction (never in the opposite direction), and without pressing on the brush.  In other words, I allow the brush to be pulled with only the pressure of it as against the varnish.

10)  Never varnish on humid days, and also for the same reason it is better to varnish in the morning and not evening

1.1)  If the area is damaged, for example if water damage or other, best to sand with 180 and arriving at 320.

2.1)  Be careful of marine plywood, as it will obligate choices.  If the "black" is in depth it's better non to exaggerate otherwise the first layer could be finished and that is a disaster. 

3.1)  when the wood has been prepped it is cleaned in the same manner as above.

4.1)  Now I'm ready to varnish.  I begin with a coat the is diluted by 50%.  Then WITHOUT SANDING BETWEEN ONE COAT AND ANOTHER.  This creates a notable thickness, diminishing the dilution between one coat and another, until there are 8/10 coats applied.   This technique (from sanding to coats applied and preparation) have been handed down by master shipwrights, and has in my experience given great satisfaction.  (In effect, if you sand between coats of varnish it diminishes the amount deposited)

5.1)  When the "base" is ready, before doing the final two coats, I sand as in point 2

6.1)  At this point the base is perfect and ready to have the final two coats applied, following the procedure noted in point 9

Have fun (I love varnishing)!

matteo (38/067 Only You)



pic below: I am varnishing my floorboards on my (home) dining table...(my wife loves me so much...)

Matteo,

I know you posted this a long time ago. Do you happen to know the stain that Swan used? The wood colour in the photos in this thread are the same as my interior 037?

Dear James,

in the 70'/80' Nautor used Sadolin, which is now dismissed.

Before going to a sprayed two component varnish in newer boats, they succesfully tried Osmo Wax clear satin 3032 (which is the same varnish I use onboard Vanessa), a very easy to be applied product, and the effect is as the original Sadolin.

Please note it's very "soft", so you can scratch it quite easily, but on the opposite side if there is a scratch you can repair it without need to varnish the whole piece.

You can buy it on Amazon.

Attached is a photo of my interior, Osmo Was varniched.

Fair winds!

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)

Matteo

That is so helpful. Thank you. I did feel mine seemed "redder" than others but will see if it colour matches to the existing interior when I try the product you recommend. Yours looks wonderful by the way.

Dear James,

except some 43s, 40s and 37s (which were teak and koto wood) they are all teak, and the colour could be brighter or darker, it depends on the wood they had at the time of building, and of course iof you take a pic on a sunny day it's more clear than in a coudy one, that said, I am sure you will be absolutely satisfied with Osmo Was, first of all because applying this product is so simple you will varnish more than you had in mind, second because you will get exactly the original satin Nautor finish!

Hope to see here some photo soon!

Happy varnishing!

matteo (47/069 Vanessa)

PS Only You was definetly darker than Vanessa, pls see below pics