Keel Beam 38'

Matteo, Professor,

Wanted to know if there any drawing available (horizontal section through) of the keel for the swan 38', I could consult... I found myself looking at some water getting out from the lead keel on the starboard side (probably through a keel thread.) after moving the boat in a shed for the winter...
Would like to understand how it was made structurally and check the threaded parts therefore need a drawing or clear indication.

I am planning to redo as well the work which was poorly performed by Jamestown yard (RI) on the keel beam few years ago and it is really falling a part... Not to recommend at all!!!!
I removed all layers of fiberglass on the keel bolts and the bottom flat part of the beam with the resin.. It is pretty rusty there..
I need all the possible recommendation as to what I should use to get all corrosion of some sort away...

Any suggestion as to how going underneath the head floor or access???? to take care the other non-visible side of the beam..

Many thanks in advance for your help..

Vincent 38/106

Dear Vincent

ask Josephine Ilagan at the S&S office for the keel drawing, they have a detailed one available

Fair winds!

matteo (38/067 Only You)

Vincent
I would like to ask where the water came out - near the top of the keel? In that case it could be the drain plug. If lower down there is either a void space for weight adjusting purposes, or the keel is encapsulated in fiberglass or filler which is peeling off. The bolts are cast into the lead and only their upper ends are accessible.
Referring to the corroded mast step the best way to remove the rust would be sand blasting, but to perform it inside the boat requires very good protection. For getting access to the part under the head floor the suggestion is to cut away the shower pan, making sure to do it so that it can be repaired afterwards.
For preventing further corrosion it would be important to keep the bilge dry, and make sure water is not standing inside the mast shoe, and trickling out slowly. The recommendation is to increase the size of the shoe drain holes considerably, thereby also improving ventilation of the bilge.
Best regards
Lars

Thank you Matteo,
Any e-mail I could use.
Best, Vincent

Vincent
I would like to ask where the water came out - near the top of the keel? In that case it could be the drain plug. If lower down there is either a void space for weight adjusting purposes, or the keel is encapsulated in fiberglass or filler which is peeling off. The bolts are cast into the lead and only their upper ends are accessible.
Referring to the corroded mast step the best way to remove the rust would be sand blasting, but to perform it inside the boat requires very good protection. For getting access to the part under the head floor the suggestion is to cut away the shower pan, making sure to do it so that it can be repaired afterwards.
For preventing further corrosion it would be important to keep the bilge dry, and make sure water is not standing inside the mast shoe, and trickling out slowly. The recommendation is to increase the size of the shoe drain holes considerably, thereby also improving ventilation of the bilge.
Best regards
Lars

Dear Lars,

The water is coming out mid keel... The bilge pump always empties every drop of water, which is in the area. So very surprising... indeed.
I noticed before I removed all the resin and fiberglass, some cracks in the gel coat on top of the keel bolt... Do you think it could have been the cause of some infiltration further down?
To open the shower sounds as you suggested the only option. I will try to find a way to sand blast, as it is definitively the only way to my knowledge to get all corrosion away. If not any product recommendation...What would be your recommendation for the metal treatment afterward?
Many thanks in advance.
Vincent

Vincent
Thank you for the information
The fiberglassing over the keel bolts is not necessarily completely watertight, particularly if there are cracks. Is there a crack between the lead keel and the hull? If this is the case water may have entered that way. Bolt holes then need to be made watertight.
For the treatment of the sandblasted steel a paint named IC 531 zinc silicate is recommended. If there are sharp corners they should be rounded off, because paint layer tends to be thinner in such locations.
Best regards
Lars

Hi Lars,

Thank you so much for responding. No crack between the keel and the hull at it has been redone two years ago.. Perfectly sealed...
Will need then the plan and the specs. of the pressure to apply and make sure all bolts are properly pressure measured and tight correctly...
Thank you,
Best Regards,
Vincent

Vincent
Recommended bolt torques can be found in post dated 26 May 08
Best regards
Lars