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S&S Swan Maintenance - Engine Bolt Holes
23 November 2015 - 11:12
#1
Join Date: 22 November 2015
Posts: 13

Engine Bolt Holes
Dear Swan Lovers,

Removing the engine frm My Swan 38 it seems that the holes in the engine bed are in bad condition.
Condition of the wood inside the holes looks soft.

What to do ?
Fill the holes with epoxy ?
and redrill the holes at the same place ?

Thank you in advance for advices.

Before

After....

23 November 2015 - 21:07
#2
Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547

Dear Serge
The engine bed originally had steel inserts under the flexible mounts, but it can be seen that the height of the bed has been cut down for the new engine. Probably the steel inserts were not put back.
It is suggested that you check if slots can be cut in the forward end of the bed below floorboard level, and the steel pieces slid into position through the slots.
Kind regards
Lars

24 November 2015 - 11:23
#3
Join Date: 30 January 2007
Posts: 446

Serge,
I am sorry because I realize that what I write implies work but I want to insist on what Lars writes.
One must not underestimate the important requirement that the engine should remain in its position at high heeling angles (hopefully not, but maybe up to 180!); this implies a very sturdy link between the engine and the stringers.
Daniel, 411/004

24 November 2015 - 17:16
#4
Join Date: 22 November 2015
Posts: 13

Thank you Lars, Thank you Daniel for your explanation

Attached 3 more pictures with details of the bed engine.

Please could you mark the placement of the steel pieces on the pictures ?
Do you have any picture of this steel pieces ?
Are they made of steel or stainless steel ?

The first 2 bold holes are at 3 cm from the level of floor,the last 2 holes are under floor level and there is not a lot of space to insert the slot.

Thank you for your experience.

short space

24 November 2015 - 21:03
#5
Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547

Dear Serge
The steel pieces can be grade S355 (EN 10025-2:2004), and have the same thickness as the bolt diameter attaching the mounts. Sized as you sketched with the colour pen on your first photo today.
If the engine mounts allow the plates to be added on the top of the bed - meaning there is enough height adjustment to compensate for this - it should be checked how thick the bed GRP laminates are, assume there is a laminate also under the wood.
If sufficient thickness, it could be considered to attach the plates on top of the GRP with say six bolts each end around each rubber mount bolt. These bolts should be threaded into the GRP/wood/GRP, and the threads treated with epoxy.
How does this sound?
Kind regards
Lars

25 November 2015 - 12:51
#6
Join Date: 23 October 2011
Posts: 147

dear Serge,
1- I see that in the first photo of the picture there are two black plates dismounted in the bilge. Are they rubber patches, or wedges for positioning the engine? Alternatively, are they in steel?
My opinion is that you need, too, to check very closely the instructions written in the manual of the engine, and, possibly, utilize the silent blocks suggested from the engine manufacturer or very similar in dimension and hardness.
2- I note that in the first picture there is a foam saddle under the engine. It is the first time that I see such a thing. Can you tell me your experience about this, that is, this installation has proven to be effective as a sound insulation? Does not it get too filthy with the time? Does it resist to heat?
Thank you for your comment,

Matteo45 (grampus 47/016)

28 November 2015 - 08:20
#7
Join Date: 22 November 2015
Posts: 13

Dear Professor,

Your explanation is very clear.
As matteo noticed on one picture there were 2 wooden blocks under the flexible mounts :
so we have enough space, and we also can compensate heigh with flexible mounts.
the mechanic is going to fix plates, to screw them and cover with grp/epoxy.
I send you pictures when the engine will be on board.

Best regards

28 November 2015 - 08:28
#8
Join Date: 22 November 2015
Posts: 13

Dear Matteo,

To prevent the noise escaping from the engine compartment it must be the most hermetic possible.
Yet the gear box and the screw shaft are in the back compartement under the floor.
The real solution would be to encapsulate the engine and the screw shaft !!!
So the foam reduce the engine noise but it is still noisy.

Best regards

06 February 2016 - 17:44
#9
Join Date: 22 November 2015
Posts: 13

Dear Matteo, To prevent the noise escaping from the engine compartment it must be the most hermetic possible. Yet the gear box and the screw shaft are in the back compartement under the floor. The real solution would be to encapsulate the engine and the screw shaft !!! So the foam reduce the engine noise but it is still noisy. Best regards

Story :
One of the engine mounts was not any more kept in the frame of the engine.
Under this engine mount we notice that the wood of the frame is soft.
The front part of the motor rests on 2 holds. The motor tilt is 17.
Works done :
Engine removed from the Swan 38.
The frame is partially cut and opened.
Then new wood, polyester laminating and gel coat.
A new transmission with 7 angle will be put in place of the previous one (500 hours).
By the way: engine maintenance, new anode, stuffing box, seacocks service and so and so....

Ready for the windy season !

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