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S&S Swan Maintenance - Engine controlcable
12 January 2016 - 15:08
Join Date: 03 February 2011
Posts: 39

Engine controlcable
There is a thread with lengths rpm-controlcable but not able to find it. Does anyone have length this cable? (S411) Electrical engine-stop mechanism not working anymore and plan to replace with manual stop-cable from cockpit and install it parallell to rpm-cable through boat. Or does anyone have an adress to find original (Perkins 4.108) electrical mechanism to stop engine. Thorbjorn/Ravn

13 January 2016 - 15:05
Join Date: 30 January 2007
Posts: 446

Hi Thorbj°rn,
you do not need to change everything because a substitution for the "pull shutdown solenoid", although not original, can be found. For example the store sells one that can be used.
The important characteristics to check are: the voltage, the stroke, the geometrical dimension and that it is a unit able to "pull" a cable. The dimension is of less importance.
You will notice that the new units have an additional feature that allows them to remain in the excited position with a low consumption. This feature should not be used in the 4.108 engine.
Are you positively certain that your solenoid is broken and needs replacing? They are so simple that they seldom fail.
Daniel, 411/004

14 January 2016 - 10:01
Join Date: 03 February 2011
Posts: 39

Hi Daniel, have been checking cabling hehind controlpanel and around engine and looks okay. Pushbutton also okay (new) but will have to take off heatexchanger to check/replace shutdown solenoid part if it have el-supply. It might be a good thing to replace with a manual cable and remove el-cables. This a nice winter-job this year, not least to have the heatexchanger off and back on. Many thanks your advise.

14 January 2016 - 13:31
Join Date: 30 January 2007
Posts: 446

I agree that a cable from the cockpit sometimes can be more reliable but you could very well have both and I would suggest that a safety direct cable should act on a valve on the diesel feed pipe near the tank - something that was not provided originally in our boats.
Is the aluminium pipe that leads the cable from the solenoid to the governor still ok? This was the only pretty tricky part to work on in my engine and indeed it is easier to work on it by removing the oil/water heat exchanger.
If you need further help please feel free to contact me; I happened to work personally on all those parts and, maybe, I can give suggestions.
Daniel, 411/004

14 January 2016 - 20:00
Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547

If you go to a manual stop cable pls note that they tend to get stiff with the time, and then you may have starting problems because the stop lever on the engine does not return properly.
Regular service recommended.
Kind regards

14 January 2016 - 22:23
Join Date: 03 February 2011
Posts: 39

Daniel, Lars,
will have to take off heatexchanger and check el cables, it might well be el-cables behind heatexchanger are damaged. (36 seasons now since new) From solenoid unit to governor, there is a thin chain on this motor which looks okay.
To manually shut off fuel by tank, wouldn`t that cause starting trouble with air getting into system? Understand there are good reasons for getting original system back into work. Thorbjorn/Ravn

15 January 2016 - 11:56
Join Date: 30 January 2007
Posts: 446

you are right, the valve on the pipe near the tank is not supposed to be used in regular conditions and there must be always a normal way of shutting down the engine by acting on the proper lever of the governor. The former is an additional safety feature which can be used for example in a "runaway" condition or in case of fire.
I would suggest that a failure in the circuit continuity, even after 30 years, is more likely to be at the end junctions of the wires than along them. Moreover the main water/water heat exchanger should not interfere with the access to the wires which, if properly placed, should run at safe distance from it.
Please notice that if you do not have already a schematics of the el-system you can download it from this site.
Daniel, 411/004

21 January 2016 - 22:46
Join Date: 31 July 2007
Posts: 84

You may not know this, but electricity and saltwater do not like each other much. And then there is the KISS principle. Please consider to use a simple pull/push cable. Make sure the sheath and the wire inside are of non corroding materials and lubricate it before installation and then about every 20 years. You may be surprised how well that works

16 March 2016 - 09:17
Join Date: 03 February 2011
Posts: 39

It appeared solenoid unit was okay, reason for malfunction was the bracket for unit on motor-block was broken off,  due corrosion/vibration.

Put on manual cable from motor to cockpit which was not too bad to install. However, the cable brings with it engine knocking-sound to cockpit.  hope this can be absorbed by rubber where cable is attached to motor.  (fixed to motor at lifting eye aft part of block).                            

Thorbjorn/Ravn 411/036

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