Do you want to be informed on new Posts on this Thread? (members only)
| S&S Swan General - S38 original teakdeck |
|---|
|
Join Date: 28 September 2020
Posts: 37 |
||
|---|---|---|
|
S38 original teakdeck Hello, heres my third issue, see thread about keel for details. The boat has its original teak deck! It has beel recaulked about 20 years ago and regularly cleaned with soap to original manufacturers specs. The boat has never left the baltic sea, maybe explains why it still sails with its first deck. For its age it looks ok, thickness is about 8mm, can bee seen from a drilling done last year. There are several screws visible, about 10-20 i guess. In some places it has been repaired. Caulking looks actually not so bad, it seems like it is sitting tightly between the teak parts. I would like to get your experience on how long this can be kept alive and is there a danger of getting water into the deck through visible screws. Does the S38 have a foam core in the deck? I would calculate around 50k € for a full deck refit. Is this realistic? But i would prefer to preserve this for as long as i could .... Cheers Timo    |
|
Join Date: 28 September 2020
Posts: 37 |
||
|---|---|---|
   |
|
Join Date: 28 September 2020
Posts: 37 |
||
|---|---|---|
   |
|
Join Date: 28 September 2020
Posts: 37 |
||
|---|---|---|
   |
|
Join Date: 29 January 2007
Posts: 1018 |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Please look at attached drawing, which shows sandwitch (dyvinecell) A higher def drawing is available on classicswan  |
|
Join Date: 28 September 2020
Posts: 37 |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Hi Matteo, thanks for your quick answer, I found the high rez document. Cheers Timo |
|
Join Date: 02 January 2008
Posts: 1547 |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Timo Two comments:
Provided the teak is well attached to the substrate, the visible screws can be removed, and replaced with cointersunk teak plugs.
The eyes on the mast collar are not intended for halyard block loads, they tend to break. Their original purpose is halyard parking
You can find the thickness of the original teak under fittings permanently installed on top of it, and then estimate the remaining life based on the present thickness, and how long it has taken to arrive there. This assumes that you avoid washing as far as possible
Kind regards
Lars
|
|
Join Date: 28 September 2020
Posts: 37 |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Hello Lars, the method to estimate the remaining lifespan is very interesting, we will take this into account and just close the screw hole with teakplugs. Thank you very much again ;-) Timo |
|
Join Date: 20 July 2017
Posts: 115 |
||
|---|---|---|
|
Hi Timo, some top tips from Lars and Matteo here as always. When we bought Kairos 6 years ago we also had to decide what to do; the teak was quite worn and we actually had some leakage into the cabin. This was due to the teak fish being broken and the chalking wasn't attached properly anymore at quite a few places. Also some screw heads were showing, although these weren't causing any problems (other than asthetics) We managed to get another 5 years use by having the broken fish and quite a bit of the chalking replaced, which solved the leakages. If, as Lars says, the deck is still well attached to the substrate below, you might have fewer problems. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case for Kairos so we had to do the above-mentioned works to keep the water out. Otherwise the water would have run between the teak and the substrate and found it's way down somewhere. We could have probably waited a few more years but we've decided give up the 2021 season and replace the deck this year. Will post pictures of the progress in a separate thread when I have a minute. Fair winds, Stefan Kairos - 57/043 |
- Threads : 1701
- Posts : 10215
- Members: 820
- Online Members: 2
